From outlawed to sustainable: Fashion student's outfit from hemp to be featured in touring exhibit

KALAMAZOO, Mich.—The use of hemp in America's fashion industry has a complex past. While commonly grown and used for centuries, the material was outlawed during the country's harsh 'War on Drugs'.

So when fashion design student Sam Covell was looking for inspiration for her entry into Louisiana State University's (LSU) "Hemp Impressions: Sustainable Fiber and Fashion Reimagined" exhibition, she knew she wanted to draw from the fabric's history.

"I was really inspired by the 1970s where hemp fabric was completely outlawed," explains Covell. "I wanted to do something that was a little reminiscent of the time where we stopped using it."

Encouraged to submit a design by her professor, Dr. Mary Simpson, Covell was one of eight students selected by LSU to receive funding for the construction of their designs. 

Now finished, Covell's design will be on display at Louisana's Old State Capitol in November 2024. And according to organizers, the exhibit will most likely tour to different places in the country after being shown at the Capitol.

Finished design

Covell's entry and final product is a patchwork two-piece set, that includes a jacket and skirt. The outfit is constructed of patches from three different shades of hemp denim.

"I really tried to challenge myself on the design," says Covell. "Working with a new fabric, I'd never used before, pressed me to do things a little more out of the box." 

According to Covell, the most difficult part of the design was constructing the jacket's collar. All one piece, the fabric starts from the waistband and goes around the neck.

"I had to actually do a spiral pattern then cut it out to the exact measurement. So figuring out how to get the structure to stand up and have this free flowing shape to it," says Covell.  

Full circle moments

Covell believes the design was only possible because of the courses she has taken in her program.

"All of the apparel construction and design classes here really build on top of each other. If I hadn't taken those, I never would have been able to do this," says Covell.

From under stitching, structuring shoulder darts and adding flounce to the skirt, Covell credits the program for instilling her with the confidence to take on this new challenge.

"Everything that I've learned has cumulated into me not only having the confidence but skill set to put something like this together."

According to Covell, the experience designing the outfit also increased the strength of her portfolio. With an industry headed toward being more eco-friendly, early exposure to sustainable fabrics puts her above others looking for employment. 

"Having the experience with a relatively unused and unknown fabric, in an industry trying to move toward being more sustainable, is really stellar on my portfolio," explains Covell.

For more WMU news, arts and events, visit WMU News online.